With another ice storm about to hit large parts of the Country, most folks are not thinking about gardening. But, if you wish to have a nice Spring garden, you can get started now.
This is a fine time to plan. Look at seed catalogues and gardening guides to find varieties you want in your garden. Get an idea of how you need to space them and how quickly they grow. Then, you can sketch out a simple plan of your plot's layout. Walk around (be careful if you have ice) and get a mental picture of what you want and where you want it. If you are in an area that gets no snow and ice, you can even start to mark out your plot, using string to lay out the lines.
Some plants can be started now, using a neat trick. Build a small box, and put a sheet of glass over the top. You now have a mini greenhouse. Even when it's very cold out, you can start seedlings and be ready, when the weather breaks, to set out hardy little plants. Note: some plants do not like being transplanted, so consult your garden guide or a local nursery for advice.
Finally, this is an excellent time to spend some time with your tools. You want every blade sharpened and a; engines properly serviced. When the warm weather comes, you want to be ready.
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Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Saturday, January 14, 2017
Tuesday, June 14, 2016
Gardening - Choosing Varieties
I am going to end this series on gardening with a discussion of the incredible varieties of plants available. The possibilities are head spinning. But, a little common sense is all you need.
Let's take tomatoes for example, although these guidelines apply to all plants. Some varieties do well in full sun, some in partial shade. Some like the hear of mid-summer, some, the mild springs, Some grow as vines and require support, while some grow as bushes. Among the bushes, there are various heights. And there are other variables, like length of growing season, moisture required. So, what do you do?
Simple. First, pick a variety that suits your climate and when you are planting. Then, look at the conditions in your garden; size, watering arrangements, how much direct sun it gets, what is your soil condition, what else you are planting. Then look at the information that comes with your plants, on the seed packet, if that's how you are starting or on the pot if you are buying seedlings. If you are still undecided, there are many handbooks and online sites that will tell you everything you could possibly need to know. If you don't have time for that, just stop by any nursery, they will help or, better still, talk to neighbors who have gardens.
This series has been only a brief introduction to gardening. My intention is simple. I would like to see more people enjoying this healthful pastime and saving some money by growing their own produce.
Let's take tomatoes for example, although these guidelines apply to all plants. Some varieties do well in full sun, some in partial shade. Some like the hear of mid-summer, some, the mild springs, Some grow as vines and require support, while some grow as bushes. Among the bushes, there are various heights. And there are other variables, like length of growing season, moisture required. So, what do you do?
Simple. First, pick a variety that suits your climate and when you are planting. Then, look at the conditions in your garden; size, watering arrangements, how much direct sun it gets, what is your soil condition, what else you are planting. Then look at the information that comes with your plants, on the seed packet, if that's how you are starting or on the pot if you are buying seedlings. If you are still undecided, there are many handbooks and online sites that will tell you everything you could possibly need to know. If you don't have time for that, just stop by any nursery, they will help or, better still, talk to neighbors who have gardens.
This series has been only a brief introduction to gardening. My intention is simple. I would like to see more people enjoying this healthful pastime and saving some money by growing their own produce.
Friday, June 10, 2016
Gardening - Pest Control
Little is as discouraging as walking to your garden and finding it crawling with critters. This will happen, but it need not be a disaster. Accept the fact that you will find some bugs and realize that a few won't hurt. If you see birds, frogs, and spiders near by, sit tight. They eat a lot of bugs and may keep things reasonably under control. Again, as long as there is not a major infestation, and your plants are healthy, a few chomps here and there by some bugs are not a big deal.
However, in our noisy, modern cities, sometimes, natural pest predators are not to be found. Then, you need to be vigilant. When 1 or 2 bugs begin multiplying, you must take action. What to do? Well, the simplest, cheapest and safest thing is to put a spray nozzle on a hose, blast them off and then step on the little creatures, or, if they are large enough, just knock them off with your hand and squash them. Then, keep an eye out; they may have left eggs and, if you start seeing little ones, repeat the above procedures.
However, if you find the prospect of squashing bugs unappealing, you will need chemical intervention. Probably the safest are the insecticidal soaps. They work fairly well, but remember, they will kill beneficial insects so don't spray when you see bees buzzing around. From there, you move to harsher and harsher chemicals. I hate the idea of harsh chemicals but if worms are devouring my cabbage, I will use them. Caution: Please use them only as directed, wear goggles, a mask, and gloves and don't spray on a windy day. Also, use chemical insecticides sparingly. Remember, healthy plants can stand a few bugs here and there.
Fungus and molds are a different matter. Water and mulch properly and you may never have these problems, again, healthy plants can stand a little damage. If fungus and mulch become widespread, you have 2 choices. Invest a lot of time and money in the proper chemical treatments or dig the plants up and burn them. I recommend the latter since, if you don't kill every bit of the problem, it will come back and it will spread. Do not compost infected plants, the heat generated in composting may not kill all of the spores. Just burn the plants, then treat the soil with the proper chemicals.
Once again, a black spot on a leaf or a caterpillar crawling on your squash is not cause for panic, but you do need to watch things. Always start with the safest easiest treatment, and only resort to powerful chemicals as a last resort.
However, in our noisy, modern cities, sometimes, natural pest predators are not to be found. Then, you need to be vigilant. When 1 or 2 bugs begin multiplying, you must take action. What to do? Well, the simplest, cheapest and safest thing is to put a spray nozzle on a hose, blast them off and then step on the little creatures, or, if they are large enough, just knock them off with your hand and squash them. Then, keep an eye out; they may have left eggs and, if you start seeing little ones, repeat the above procedures.
However, if you find the prospect of squashing bugs unappealing, you will need chemical intervention. Probably the safest are the insecticidal soaps. They work fairly well, but remember, they will kill beneficial insects so don't spray when you see bees buzzing around. From there, you move to harsher and harsher chemicals. I hate the idea of harsh chemicals but if worms are devouring my cabbage, I will use them. Caution: Please use them only as directed, wear goggles, a mask, and gloves and don't spray on a windy day. Also, use chemical insecticides sparingly. Remember, healthy plants can stand a few bugs here and there.
Fungus and molds are a different matter. Water and mulch properly and you may never have these problems, again, healthy plants can stand a little damage. If fungus and mulch become widespread, you have 2 choices. Invest a lot of time and money in the proper chemical treatments or dig the plants up and burn them. I recommend the latter since, if you don't kill every bit of the problem, it will come back and it will spread. Do not compost infected plants, the heat generated in composting may not kill all of the spores. Just burn the plants, then treat the soil with the proper chemicals.
Once again, a black spot on a leaf or a caterpillar crawling on your squash is not cause for panic, but you do need to watch things. Always start with the safest easiest treatment, and only resort to powerful chemicals as a last resort.
Wednesday, June 1, 2016
Gardening - What to Plant
Now comes the fun, selecting what to plant and where to plant it. First understand that vegetable/fruit/berry gardening can be just as aesthetically pleasing as flower gardening. These plants often have fine foliage, interesting fruit and lovely flowers. Personally, I would grow okra as an ornamental because of its beautiful, hibiscus-like flower and interesting, attractive pods. There are even ornamental varieties of broccoli and kale. However, first things first.
Decide what you want to grow and then look for varieties that suit your climate. Not all plants grow well in all places. If you live in Connecticut and want to grow bananas, you will be disappointed and if you want to grow apples in Miami, you will not do well. Don't bother trying to grow plants where they won't grow ( I know that sounds simple minded but I have known many a New Yorker who moved to South Florida and were shocked to learn that they couldn't grow their favorites).When you find a variety that suits your area, then find out when you plant it.
For example, I lived for years in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. If I wanted to plant lettuce, I planted no later than late February and again in October. If I did that up North, it wouldn't work, too cold. In Florida, perfect but, if I had tried to plant lettuce in May, when my Northern friends did, It would have been unable to withstand the heat. Actually, the only things I could grow well in the South Florida summers were collard greens, okra and cherry tomatoes and even then, I had to keep the tomatoes in a mostly shady area.
And that brings me to another point. Watch where you plant things. If a plant like full sun, don't plant it next to a tall plant that will shade it. If it likes a lot of water, don't plant it next to a plant that likes little water. Again, I don't want to state the obvious, but many folks seem to think that they can stick anything, anywhere, any time and have success. Trust me, that does not work and why go through the effort of putting in a garden only to have it fail.
But, none of this is hard to figure out. Just do a minimal amount of research. There are countless guides to planting, both in print and on-line; just follow directions. And, there is another way, one that I prefer. If you have a neighbor who gardens, take them a glass of iced tea or a beer and strike up a conversation. Most will be happy to share their knowledge of local gardening. If none of your neighbors garden, then go to a local nursery, not the garden section of Home Depot or Walmart, but a real nursery. They still exist and will be happy to help you.
Decide what you want to grow and then look for varieties that suit your climate. Not all plants grow well in all places. If you live in Connecticut and want to grow bananas, you will be disappointed and if you want to grow apples in Miami, you will not do well. Don't bother trying to grow plants where they won't grow ( I know that sounds simple minded but I have known many a New Yorker who moved to South Florida and were shocked to learn that they couldn't grow their favorites).When you find a variety that suits your area, then find out when you plant it.
For example, I lived for years in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. If I wanted to plant lettuce, I planted no later than late February and again in October. If I did that up North, it wouldn't work, too cold. In Florida, perfect but, if I had tried to plant lettuce in May, when my Northern friends did, It would have been unable to withstand the heat. Actually, the only things I could grow well in the South Florida summers were collard greens, okra and cherry tomatoes and even then, I had to keep the tomatoes in a mostly shady area.
And that brings me to another point. Watch where you plant things. If a plant like full sun, don't plant it next to a tall plant that will shade it. If it likes a lot of water, don't plant it next to a plant that likes little water. Again, I don't want to state the obvious, but many folks seem to think that they can stick anything, anywhere, any time and have success. Trust me, that does not work and why go through the effort of putting in a garden only to have it fail.
But, none of this is hard to figure out. Just do a minimal amount of research. There are countless guides to planting, both in print and on-line; just follow directions. And, there is another way, one that I prefer. If you have a neighbor who gardens, take them a glass of iced tea or a beer and strike up a conversation. Most will be happy to share their knowledge of local gardening. If none of your neighbors garden, then go to a local nursery, not the garden section of Home Depot or Walmart, but a real nursery. They still exist and will be happy to help you.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Gardening - Raised Beds and Containers
Don't want to rent a roto tiller? Worse yet, don't want to sweat with a hoe and shovel? Don't blame you. There is another way.
Raised beds are great and simple. They are just what they sound like. Build a box without a bottom. Wood is the usual choice, although I suppose you could use PVC slats like the ones sometimes used in fencing. The size is up to you. Personally, I would rather have several small ones than one or two big ones. If using wood, use pressure treated or be ready to waterproof it with some kind of polyurethane. I would not nail the pieces. When you add soil and then water, there will be a lot of weight pushing on the sides and if your box collapses, you will have a mess. Instead, use fairly long wood screws and add a lock washer. A couple of feet is high enough for the sides. As you can see, this is not precise carpentry. However, these beds are visible in your yard so you do want them to look presentable.
When your beds are built, just add dirt. For this, I would have some top soil delivered. A yard of topsoil is not very expensive and you will stretch it when you add your compost. A yard is a cubic yard, 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet or 27 cubic feet. To give you an idea of how much you need, if your bed is 4 feet by 4 feet by 2 feet, that is 32 cubic feet. So, since you are adding compost and you don't fill the bed right up to the top, a yard of top soil is good for that bed. Have it delivered, get a wheelbarrow and fill the bed. If you don't feel up to that, hire someone. Landscapers will do the job, but I imagine you could ask the neighbors and see if they have any able bodied kids who would like to earn a few dollars for a little work. When they are filled, you are good to go.
Apartment dwellers and those with little open yard space need not despair. You can grow a variety of edibles in containers. Flower pots of varying size and style are attractive and work nicely. Window boxes work great for many herbs and some small vegetables. Window boxes can be purchased pre-made and then you follow directions for securing them. Or, if handy, you can make your own.
I love raised beds and container gardening. They are neat, attractive ways to grow edibles and, once established, they are easy to maintain.
Raised beds are great and simple. They are just what they sound like. Build a box without a bottom. Wood is the usual choice, although I suppose you could use PVC slats like the ones sometimes used in fencing. The size is up to you. Personally, I would rather have several small ones than one or two big ones. If using wood, use pressure treated or be ready to waterproof it with some kind of polyurethane. I would not nail the pieces. When you add soil and then water, there will be a lot of weight pushing on the sides and if your box collapses, you will have a mess. Instead, use fairly long wood screws and add a lock washer. A couple of feet is high enough for the sides. As you can see, this is not precise carpentry. However, these beds are visible in your yard so you do want them to look presentable.
When your beds are built, just add dirt. For this, I would have some top soil delivered. A yard of topsoil is not very expensive and you will stretch it when you add your compost. A yard is a cubic yard, 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet or 27 cubic feet. To give you an idea of how much you need, if your bed is 4 feet by 4 feet by 2 feet, that is 32 cubic feet. So, since you are adding compost and you don't fill the bed right up to the top, a yard of top soil is good for that bed. Have it delivered, get a wheelbarrow and fill the bed. If you don't feel up to that, hire someone. Landscapers will do the job, but I imagine you could ask the neighbors and see if they have any able bodied kids who would like to earn a few dollars for a little work. When they are filled, you are good to go.
Apartment dwellers and those with little open yard space need not despair. You can grow a variety of edibles in containers. Flower pots of varying size and style are attractive and work nicely. Window boxes work great for many herbs and some small vegetables. Window boxes can be purchased pre-made and then you follow directions for securing them. Or, if handy, you can make your own.
I love raised beds and container gardening. They are neat, attractive ways to grow edibles and, once established, they are easy to maintain.
Wednesday, May 25, 2016
Gardening - Watering
Water is now a worldwide problem. There is a definite lack of drinkable water and it is getting worse rapidly. Homeowners are paying more and more for water. However, this should not deter the wise gardener.
It would be ideal if you have a well and can pump water from the ground for your plants. If you can afford this and don't live in a subdivision that monitors your every move, do it. If you must depend on your municipal water system, don't despair. When you select the type of plants you want, look for the type that are native to your area. This is called xeriscaping and you can apply this to food plants as well as ornamentals. Whatever you plant, be aware that plants have different water preferences; some like to be very wet, some like little water. Group plants by their preference.
There are many ways to get water to your plants. If you already have a sprinkler system for your yard, great. Use it. But, you may have to adjust the heads a bit to get proper coverage. Just be careful when you put in the garden, especially if you use a roto tiller, or you will be spending a lot of time repairing pipes.
I spent many years working on sprinkler systems and I don't like them. If I didn't already have one, I would not spend the money to put one in. There are cheaper ways that take a lot less maintenance. The cheapest and simplest - get a hose and an old fashioned rotating sprinkler head, hook it up, stick it in the ground, and turn on the water. It works just fine.
The best system is drip irrigation, using microtubes. This is an easy system to install and it will save you a lot of water. Also, it delivers water only to the roots which is just where you want it. The problem is that, well, there is always a problem. Something is always breaking or getting plugged and they just take too much maintenance. Next best are soaker hoses. They also reduce your water usage and they are durable. However, you will likely find yourself having to move them around a lot to insure that everything gets soaked. The old way, using that rotating head hooked to a hose is the cheapest and the easiest.
However you do it, you need to know when enough is enough. That is easy. Of course you adjust according to what the plants need, but most like a good soaking. Then, they would rather you wait until the soil is almost dry before you re-water. To find that out, stick your finger in the ground. If the tip is dry or just slightly damp, water. If it is wet, don't. It is that simple. Do not over water. Overwatering will kill plants far faster than under watering.
Technically, it is best to water in the hours just before sunrise or just after. Well, that is best and if you don't get up that early, you can put a valve between your water source and the pipes or hose carrying it to your garden then add a timer They are easy to install, just follow the instructions. However, this can lead to overwatering. Say, your system is set to go off and you have a heavy rain that night. You will be wasting water and possibly damaging your garden. Or suppose you water thoroughly and you have several overcast days, leading to less evaporation. You can manually over ride your timer, or shut it off, or wire in a rain gauge, but, now you have added work. Let me tell you a secret. You can water in the daytime, you just have to water a little more to comp for evaporation. Just try not to water right before dark; plants really don't like that. With daylight saving time most folks can get home, water, and the plants have time to dry off before dark, and late spring, summer, and early fall is when most of you will be gardening, so, no problem.
Watering is something you have to play around with until you get a feel for it. Fortunately, most plants are pretty hardy and can abide our mistakes fairly well. Of course, if you are an apartment dweller and are gardening indoors or on your patio, no problem; you just port water around the plants when you see the need.
One final word. From time to time, droughts happen and water restrictions and even rationing are imposed. Don't violate these rules. Officials are telling you the truth; there really is a problem, so follow their orders. If the drought is severe, skip that growing season. Work on improving your soil so you are ready for the next year.
It would be ideal if you have a well and can pump water from the ground for your plants. If you can afford this and don't live in a subdivision that monitors your every move, do it. If you must depend on your municipal water system, don't despair. When you select the type of plants you want, look for the type that are native to your area. This is called xeriscaping and you can apply this to food plants as well as ornamentals. Whatever you plant, be aware that plants have different water preferences; some like to be very wet, some like little water. Group plants by their preference.
There are many ways to get water to your plants. If you already have a sprinkler system for your yard, great. Use it. But, you may have to adjust the heads a bit to get proper coverage. Just be careful when you put in the garden, especially if you use a roto tiller, or you will be spending a lot of time repairing pipes.
I spent many years working on sprinkler systems and I don't like them. If I didn't already have one, I would not spend the money to put one in. There are cheaper ways that take a lot less maintenance. The cheapest and simplest - get a hose and an old fashioned rotating sprinkler head, hook it up, stick it in the ground, and turn on the water. It works just fine.
The best system is drip irrigation, using microtubes. This is an easy system to install and it will save you a lot of water. Also, it delivers water only to the roots which is just where you want it. The problem is that, well, there is always a problem. Something is always breaking or getting plugged and they just take too much maintenance. Next best are soaker hoses. They also reduce your water usage and they are durable. However, you will likely find yourself having to move them around a lot to insure that everything gets soaked. The old way, using that rotating head hooked to a hose is the cheapest and the easiest.
However you do it, you need to know when enough is enough. That is easy. Of course you adjust according to what the plants need, but most like a good soaking. Then, they would rather you wait until the soil is almost dry before you re-water. To find that out, stick your finger in the ground. If the tip is dry or just slightly damp, water. If it is wet, don't. It is that simple. Do not over water. Overwatering will kill plants far faster than under watering.
Technically, it is best to water in the hours just before sunrise or just after. Well, that is best and if you don't get up that early, you can put a valve between your water source and the pipes or hose carrying it to your garden then add a timer They are easy to install, just follow the instructions. However, this can lead to overwatering. Say, your system is set to go off and you have a heavy rain that night. You will be wasting water and possibly damaging your garden. Or suppose you water thoroughly and you have several overcast days, leading to less evaporation. You can manually over ride your timer, or shut it off, or wire in a rain gauge, but, now you have added work. Let me tell you a secret. You can water in the daytime, you just have to water a little more to comp for evaporation. Just try not to water right before dark; plants really don't like that. With daylight saving time most folks can get home, water, and the plants have time to dry off before dark, and late spring, summer, and early fall is when most of you will be gardening, so, no problem.
Watering is something you have to play around with until you get a feel for it. Fortunately, most plants are pretty hardy and can abide our mistakes fairly well. Of course, if you are an apartment dweller and are gardening indoors or on your patio, no problem; you just port water around the plants when you see the need.
One final word. From time to time, droughts happen and water restrictions and even rationing are imposed. Don't violate these rules. Officials are telling you the truth; there really is a problem, so follow their orders. If the drought is severe, skip that growing season. Work on improving your soil so you are ready for the next year.
Friday, May 20, 2016
Gardening - Compost - Let It Rot
There is a simple secret to inexpensive, easy gardening that makes the whole thing almost foolproof, compost. Compost is organic, vegetable matter that has been left to, well, rot. Okay, it's not quite that simple but, almost. Working compost into your soil does wonders. It contains a very wide range of nutrients and adds a kind of matter that improves soil drainage. The minerals found in compost will help balance your soils ph. All those benefits for almost no cost because, you can make it yourself.
Of course, you can buy compost in bags or in bulk and it really is not terribly expensive but, why not make it yourself?. If you have a yard, there are several ways. You can build a wooden frame, a box shape using outdoor grade plywood nailed to a 2X4 frame, then add a hinged lid. Actually, you can skip the lid, but your neighbors might not find your compost pile attractive, so add the lid. (actually, I just had a thought -why not get together with those neighbors and create a community compost heap). You can, if so inclined, buy a composter, generally a barrel mounted so it can be rotated, like a chicken on a spit, with a lid of some sort. If you are a talented builder, you can even make one quite easily. You can also take the easier ways of getting some huge trash cans or a bunch of large, heavy duty black plastic bags.
You see, all you are going to do is pile up all your vegetative wastes, lawn clippings, raked leaves, hedge trimmings, vegetable and fruit peels from the kitchen, wood chips from tree trimmings, even shredded newspapers (remember, they were once plants). All materials work best when chopped as finely as possible. For example, a large branch of a tree would take a very long time to compost, so cut it up, or, if you have access, run it through a chipper but, you don't have to reduce it to sawdust - use common sense. Do not, ever, ever, ever add animal products such as meat scraps or pet feces. They often carry unwanted parasites, they will draw ever stray cat or possum or raccoon - whatever you have in your neighborhood, and they will stink. Manure and such is processed differently and if you want to add that to your soil, buy it from a garden center.
Start your pile and keep growing it. Every week or so, dampen it and, using a shovel, or better still, a large garden fork, turn it. Wear a dust mask and goggles because, until it is ready, it may harbor molds or fungus. When turned, cover it again, or leave it open if you want but, smell aside, it will compost faster when covered. Yes, I said smell. It will smell some, for awhile. Obviously you don't want your pile next to your house - put it near the edge of your property. The smell will ease up over time and when finished, there will be very little odor.
When is it done? When it is nearly odor free, is a rich brownish black color, and crumbly when handled. Then, just work it into your garden soil. You can do this with a hoe and it is great exercise, but if that is too much for you or if you have a huge garden, rent a roto-tiller. You will be amazed at how improved your soil is and, you will find that you need much less water and fertilizer. During the growing season, if you have more compost ready, just scatter around your plants. The more compost you add and the longer you keep adding it, the better your soil will be.
If you do not have a yard with enough room. or if you are in an apartment, consider buying compost; the expense will be minimal. You can, if you have a patio, make some, by saving vegetable and fruit peels and plant trimmings in large coffee cans. Just keep them damp and turn them a little. You may get enough for your plants. Just keep the lid on.
Two quick notes. One: when you uncover your pile and get ready to turn it, don't be alarmed if it is very hot and even puts off some smoke. That is just the process proceeding as it should. Two: I almost forgot, if you are a coffee drinker, compost your coffee grounds, they will help with the ph adjustment and they have several fine nutrients.
One last thing: how big should the pile be? Well, the more compost you have, the better but, don't make your pile so big that you work yourself to death turning it. Make several small piles. Also, by making smaller piles, the process goes faster. Now, happy composting.
Of course, you can buy compost in bags or in bulk and it really is not terribly expensive but, why not make it yourself?. If you have a yard, there are several ways. You can build a wooden frame, a box shape using outdoor grade plywood nailed to a 2X4 frame, then add a hinged lid. Actually, you can skip the lid, but your neighbors might not find your compost pile attractive, so add the lid. (actually, I just had a thought -why not get together with those neighbors and create a community compost heap). You can, if so inclined, buy a composter, generally a barrel mounted so it can be rotated, like a chicken on a spit, with a lid of some sort. If you are a talented builder, you can even make one quite easily. You can also take the easier ways of getting some huge trash cans or a bunch of large, heavy duty black plastic bags.
You see, all you are going to do is pile up all your vegetative wastes, lawn clippings, raked leaves, hedge trimmings, vegetable and fruit peels from the kitchen, wood chips from tree trimmings, even shredded newspapers (remember, they were once plants). All materials work best when chopped as finely as possible. For example, a large branch of a tree would take a very long time to compost, so cut it up, or, if you have access, run it through a chipper but, you don't have to reduce it to sawdust - use common sense. Do not, ever, ever, ever add animal products such as meat scraps or pet feces. They often carry unwanted parasites, they will draw ever stray cat or possum or raccoon - whatever you have in your neighborhood, and they will stink. Manure and such is processed differently and if you want to add that to your soil, buy it from a garden center.
Start your pile and keep growing it. Every week or so, dampen it and, using a shovel, or better still, a large garden fork, turn it. Wear a dust mask and goggles because, until it is ready, it may harbor molds or fungus. When turned, cover it again, or leave it open if you want but, smell aside, it will compost faster when covered. Yes, I said smell. It will smell some, for awhile. Obviously you don't want your pile next to your house - put it near the edge of your property. The smell will ease up over time and when finished, there will be very little odor.
When is it done? When it is nearly odor free, is a rich brownish black color, and crumbly when handled. Then, just work it into your garden soil. You can do this with a hoe and it is great exercise, but if that is too much for you or if you have a huge garden, rent a roto-tiller. You will be amazed at how improved your soil is and, you will find that you need much less water and fertilizer. During the growing season, if you have more compost ready, just scatter around your plants. The more compost you add and the longer you keep adding it, the better your soil will be.
If you do not have a yard with enough room. or if you are in an apartment, consider buying compost; the expense will be minimal. You can, if you have a patio, make some, by saving vegetable and fruit peels and plant trimmings in large coffee cans. Just keep them damp and turn them a little. You may get enough for your plants. Just keep the lid on.
Two quick notes. One: when you uncover your pile and get ready to turn it, don't be alarmed if it is very hot and even puts off some smoke. That is just the process proceeding as it should. Two: I almost forgot, if you are a coffee drinker, compost your coffee grounds, they will help with the ph adjustment and they have several fine nutrients.
One last thing: how big should the pile be? Well, the more compost you have, the better but, don't make your pile so big that you work yourself to death turning it. Make several small piles. Also, by making smaller piles, the process goes faster. Now, happy composting.
Monday, May 16, 2016
Gardening - Grow Your Own Fruit, Vegetables, and Berries
This is an introduction to a series I will be doing on Gardening. Not flowers, although I am all for flowers and will discuss them at a later time. No, I want to encourage all of you to grow a little of your own produce. Why?
Well, to save some money. That's first and for most, Done incorrectly, growing produce at home can cost you more than buying it at the store, a lot more. Done correctly, you can save a bunch of money.
Second, quality. The produce you buy at a supermarket is almost always picked green and ripened in shipment. Thus, it has not had a chance to develop its full range of nutrients. It also has not developed its full range of flavor. In addition, much of it is in the form of varieties that are specifically grown to be shipped and/or to be easier to grow on huge forms and is often just not as flavorful or nutritious. If you have a farmer's market near you, great. You can find fine produce there but, often, it is expensive.
Third, pleasure. Growing a garden is not all that hard and it is a real treat to sit down to a meal and enjoy the fruits of your labor. After all, I am not talking about planting 30 acres, just a nice garden. The work is great exercise and, if you have kids, it is a great way to get them outside and away from the computer and cell phone.
Some of the topics I will write about include soil, compost, water, feeding, pest control, varieties to plant container gardening and raised beds. I hope you enjoy the series.
Well, to save some money. That's first and for most, Done incorrectly, growing produce at home can cost you more than buying it at the store, a lot more. Done correctly, you can save a bunch of money.
Second, quality. The produce you buy at a supermarket is almost always picked green and ripened in shipment. Thus, it has not had a chance to develop its full range of nutrients. It also has not developed its full range of flavor. In addition, much of it is in the form of varieties that are specifically grown to be shipped and/or to be easier to grow on huge forms and is often just not as flavorful or nutritious. If you have a farmer's market near you, great. You can find fine produce there but, often, it is expensive.
Third, pleasure. Growing a garden is not all that hard and it is a real treat to sit down to a meal and enjoy the fruits of your labor. After all, I am not talking about planting 30 acres, just a nice garden. The work is great exercise and, if you have kids, it is a great way to get them outside and away from the computer and cell phone.
Some of the topics I will write about include soil, compost, water, feeding, pest control, varieties to plant container gardening and raised beds. I hope you enjoy the series.
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
The Practical American
Americans are going through some rough times. Despite what many economic
reporters say, the economy is at best shaky. Any slight thing, trouble abroad,
somestic scandal, natural disaster, even a run of bad weather in the farm belt,
will cause the whole thing to sink into a downturn that will make our last
recession look like a party.
I have lived a good while now and have had periods of affluence and periods
of poverty. I know how to get along with little money. I worked doing building
maintenance and learned how to fix darn near anything. I have worked in
kitchens and know how to cook almost anything. And, I had the good fortune to
be born into a family whose roots go back to the country where people had
to be largely self-reliant. That is how
they survived the Great Depression.
I also have spent some time gardening, both as a hobby and as part of my
work. There is little as satisfying as eating vegetables and fruit you have
grown yourself.
I have also, through research combined with practical necessity learned a
good bit about how to stay healthy. I never did care much for doctors and, on
the whole, find that the more I avoid them, the better I feel.
I have decided to write this blog to try and help some of my fellow
Americans through the rough times facing this Nation. There is no reason to
suffer if you know a few tricks to ease your way along. I hope you find my tips
useful. Feel free to comment and/or ask questions.
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